Château Rayas Pignan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Rouge 2009

Robert Parker
The 2009 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the strongest examples of this wine I have tasted in recent years. This medium to dark ruby-hued offering exhibits glorious, sweet notes of strawberry and black cherry jam intermixed with nori (the seaweed wrapper used in sushi restaurants), licorice, lavender and incense. Deep, full-bodied and supple textured, this 1,000-case cuvee is already irresistible. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.

Reynaudfamiliens tilstedeværelse på Chateau Rayas startede i 1880, da en notar fra Avignonområdet blev døv i en alder af 45 år. Han måtte skifte erhverv og købte Rayas. Hans søn Louis havde to sønner. Til den ældste købte han Chateau des Tours i Sarrians i 1935, og i 1945 købte han Chateau Fonsalette og drev den fra Rayas. Den yngste søn Jacques overtog ved hans død Rayas og Fonsalette. Jacques døde i 1997 uden at efterlade sig en direkte efterkommer til stedet. Det blev derfor hans nevø Emmanuel der overtog ledelsen.

Chateau Rayas er en legende i Chateauneuf du Pape. Man finder næppe et finere og mere rent udtryk fra Grenachedruen end det man finder i Rayas. Charmen, det yndefulde, det elegante, det burgundiske udtryk – det er Rayas. På Chateau Rayas laves flere forskellige vine, først og fremmest selve Chateau Rayas som laves i rød og i hvid og er lavet på henholdsvis 100 % Grenache og 100% Grenache Blanc. Pignan de Rayas laves kun i rød og er andenvinen til Chateau Rayas og derfor ligeledes ren Grenache. Chateau Fonsalette er en selvstændig ejendom, men vinene laves på Chateau Rayas. Fonsalette Blanc laves på 80% Grenache Blanc, 10 % Marsanne og 10 % Clairette. Fonsalette Rouge laves på 50 % Grenache, 35 % Cinsault og 15 % Syrah. Da man har væsentlig mere Syrah beplantet end man har brug for til Fonsalette, laver man ved siden af denne Chateau Fonsalette Cuvée Syrah. Når alle vinene er sammenstukket blandes det der er tilbage til Côtes du Rhône La Pialade, som typisk er en blanding af 80 % Grenache, 15 % Cinsault og 5 % Syrah.

Emmanuel er på mange måder en speciel vinmager; bl.a. er han af den opfattelse, at hans vine skal drikkes, når de er modne. Derfor frigiver han ikke hele produktionen af vine i nye årgange, men holder en stor del tilbage, som han frigiver ”drypvis”. Det vil sige, at han (og dermed vi) kan tilbyde de fleste af vinene fra Chateau Rayas og Chateau Fonsalette i 6-8 årgange.