Château Cos d'Estournel 2005

Robert ParkerThe 2005 Cos d'Estournel is blended of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet colored, it is still a little closed and youthfully shy. With coaxing, the nose is just beginning to offer glimpses at vivacious kirsch, red roses, violets, licorice and mocha scents over a crème de cassis, blackberry pie and chocolate-covered cherry core with wafts of chargrill, mossy bark and truffles. Full-bodied, concentrated and wonderfully complex in the mouth, the palate is just beginning to reveal the true potential of this wine, with tightly wound layers of perfumed black fruits and earthy notions bound by a rock-solid frame of firm, grainy tannins and finishing with epic persistence. This still needs 5-6 years, but I love how this beauty is shaping up!!

VinousI have been fortunate to taste the 2005 Cos d'Estournel three times in recent weeks and it has never been anything less than stunningly beautiful, as it is once again on this night. The interplay of dark, ripe fruit and the more mineral, savory-inflected nuances typical of Saint-Estèphe yield a compelling, wonderfully complete Bordeaux that simply has it all. An exotic mélange of graphite, gravel, smoke, cured meats and dark-fleshed fruits flow through to the explosive finish. Riveting today, the 2005 Cos will continue to thrill those fortunate enough to own it for several decades. Given its price vis-à-vis many of the high-flying wines of the year, the 2005 Cos remains a terrific relative value in its class.

Jeb DunnuckGorgeous blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, chocolate, gravelly earth, and spicy notes all define the 2005 Château Cos D'Estournel, a deep, full-bodied, powerful expression of this terroir that does everything right. Massively concentrated, rich, and unctuous, it nevertheless stays flawlessly balanced and has ripe, polished tannins. Needing plenty of air to show at its best, it's just now getting to the early stages of its prime drinking window and has another 30 years or more of longevity. A word of warning, I have found some variability in this wine with some bottles being more evolved and tired than expected. Provenance is key.

James SucklingThe purity of fruit in this is fascinating with plums, currants and other dark fruits. Then there is another layer of spices and chocolate. So much cassis. Full and very layered with chewy polished tannins and a long, long finish. Just starting to open. Changes all the time.

Château Cos d'Estournel er det første slot man møder, når man kommer sydfra og kører ind i appellation Saint-Estèphe. Slottets arkitektur er ret enestående med de asiatiske pagodelignende tårne, der får én til at overveje, om der mon produceres vin eller destilleres single malt på stedet. I hvert fald kan man næsten ikke undgå at lade tankerne falde på de skotske pagodeagtige indretninger på destillerierne. Men det er vin, som man laver på Cos d’Estournel, endda én af de allerbedste i hele bordeauxregionen. Og i de gode årgange kan Cos nemt tage konkurrencen op med den sydlige nabo 1. Cru Classé slottet Château Lafite-Rothschild i Pauillac.

Skaberen af slottet - og vinen - var Louis-Gaspard d’Estournel, der opdagede, at undergrunden her var meget anderledes, og gav nogle helt andre og bedre vine, end han kunne producere andre steder i området. Louis-Gaspard d’Estournel gjorde vinen fra Cos populær, og fandt en fanskare helt ude i Indien. Blandt de mange fans i Europa var blandt andre dronning Victoria, Zaren af Rusland, Napoleon III, Jules Verne, ja selv Karl Marx figurerede i kundearkivet på Louis-Gaspard d’Estournel’s tid.

Château Cos d'Estournel har siden 2000 været ejet af Michel Reybier, der har investeret en stor sum penge i at toptune både kælder og selve slottet, der i dag fremstår som et af de allerflotteste showrooms på noget slot i Bordeaux. Fra en glasbro, der strækker sig tværs over fadkælderen, er der adgang til den gamle flaskekælder, hvor tusindevis af gamle flasker hviler i de mest smukke omgivelser, man overhovedet kan forestille sig. Selve produktionen er indrettet således, at alle pumper er fjernet, og mosten og vinen transporteres rundt i processen via tyngdekræften - ”free run juice-metoden” - for at undgå iltning.

Den prætentiøse udstråling er overvældende. Men vinen fra Cos d'Estournel kan virkelig leve op til den ydre fremtoning. Château Cos d'Estournel producerer én af Médoc’s allerbedste vine.

Chateau Cos D'Estournel St.Estèphe 2. Cru, er en blanding af 85 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 % Merlot og 3 % Cabernet Franc.