Domaine Du Comte Liger-Belair La Colombiere Vosne-Romanée 2008 - magnum

The 2008 Vosne-Romanee La Colombiere comes across as a touch rustic. Sweet scents of tobacco, forest floor and autumn leaves are some of the nuances that emerge from this mid-weight Burgundy. The tannins dry out quite a bit on the finish, detracting from the wine’s overall balance.

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s wines keep getting better. The improvement is less a reflection of the underlying vintages and more the result of the work the estate has done to convert their vineyards to biodynamic farming. These are some of the most unique and compelling wines being made anywhere in Burgundy. The house style emphasizes the weightless transparency, finesse and sweetness that only Pinot Noir (and perhaps Nebbiolo) is capable of. As good as the 2010s are, the 2009s have also turned out beautifully. I will report on those wines in the April issue. Readers may also want to check out my video interview with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair posted on www.erobertparker.com for more historical perspective on the domaine.